Chamonix - village

Chamonix is a bustling town, not a village, and sprawls its way for miles along the valley. But the centre is full of charm, with cobbled streets and attractive old buildings. Nearly every other building seems to be a bar or restaurant, and there are plenty of pavement cafés to add to the slightly Parisian atmosphere. It is dotted with statues of mountaineering pioneers who risked, and sometimes sacrificed, their lives to conquer the surrounding peaks.

Accommodation

A massive choice of accommodation, with hotels of every standard and price and many catered chalets, run by both the big tour operators and small specialist firms. A big bonus is that many of the hotels are more than happy to take short bookings such as long weekends – something that is not possible in many other resorts. One small but cosy option is Chalet les Pelerins (0845 8900 362), which has a wood-fired hot tub in the garden.

Ski/snowboard equipment hire

Chamonix has many outstanding hire shops. With such a demanding clientele, expect them to be on the ball – whether you're a skier, boarder, langlaufer or a ski touring fan.

Skiset (00 33 450 93 75 30) has 4 shops in Chamonix. If you pre-book online you can get a 30% discount and your skis are ready for you when you arrive.

Cham Sport (00 33 450 53 23 36) has 3 shops at key locations. Ski-loc (00 33 450 53 36 86), part of the Sport 2000 chain, has a store near the centre and offers free shuttles to the lift stations

Non-ski activities

While this is a full-on adrenaline destination, it is also an excellent choice for non-skiers with plenty of off-the-slope activities. We find the Alpine Museum (00 33 450 53 25 93), with its emphasis on the raw power of the mountains, still fascinating after several visits.

One of the most exciting activities is husky sledding, which can be done at several locations including Balme. Driving a sled pulled by three or four yapping dogs is tremendous fun. Details from Huskydalen or through the tourist office.

You can also enjoy the traditional Scandinavian activity of ski joering, where you are dragged along a forest track by a powerful cart horse. An hour's adventure costs ¢45 with local mountain guide Christophe Andre.

Non-skiers can take cable cars and telecabines up to enjoy the views and meet up with skiing friends at mountain restaurants, as well as taking the mountain railway for the half-hour trip up to Montenvers for stunning views over the Mer de Glace. Excursions by rail are possible to a number of nearby towns, including Geneva. There is also a decent sports centre, pool and ice-skating rink.

Childcare

The ESF can care for children from 3 years old while their parents go skiing. The Panda Club (00 33 450  54 04 76), based in Argentière, also takes children from age 3. Ski Esprit (01252 618300), a British tour operator that specialises in families and employs its own nursery nurses, operates to Chamonix.