Grandvalira - village

Set on a fairly steep hillside, Soldeu, as with most of the communities in Andorra, has at first acquaintance a sombre aspect – the buildings are faced in the local grey slate. But this grows on you and all new development, of which there is much, is designed to fit in with this style.

El Tarter is growing rapidly and has a number of restaurants and bars, but is still a quiet choice and Canillo is a pleasant village. Pas de la Casa is located right on the border between Andorra and France – indeed, it has one lift in France – and is probably the liveliest of the Grandvalira villages. It is popular with the French on duty-free day trips and has a marked 'Franco-British' atmosphere, with a traffic-free centre. 

Grau Roig, which is pronounced Rosh, is a tiny village popular with those who like a get-away-from-it-all atmosphere and is excellently placed right at the centre of the skiing between the slopes of Pas de la Casa and Soldeu. 

Encamp is a busy little village situated on the road between Soldeu and Andorra la Vella, with a gondola link into the Grandvalira skiing. It's an interesting choice for those who are either on a tighter budget, or alternatively keen to be closer to the tempting range of designer shops and nightlife, such as it is, in the tiny capital.

No matter where you stay you are delightfully aware that this is one of those quirky mini-states that Europe does so well – with a madcap history that includes it being at war with Germany for 44 years, without anyone noticing. In 1918 nobody thought to invite Andorra to the Treaty of Versailles and it was only in 1958 that a document came to light revealing the embarrassing truth. An appropriate treaty was quickly drawn up. 

Accommodation

In Soldeu, the accommodation would be unrecognisable to those who haven't visited for a few years. There is an impressive choice of three and four-star hotels, clustered around the gondola station. There is also a five-star, the Sport Hotel Hermitage (00 376 87 06 70) at the foot of the slopes. All rooms here are suites with super mountain views, and the hotel boasts a massive spa.

Pas de la Casa has a wide range of hotels, mostly three-star, and apartments and chalets. The ultra-stylish Grau Roig hotel (00 376 75 55 56) is simply fabulous and certainly the choice if you're not after a lively village atmosphere. El Tarter and Canillo both have a choice of pleasant, modest hotels – with Encamp having the keenest-priced accommodation.

Ski/snowboard equipment hire

There are rental shops near the lift base stations at all of the Grandvalira villages, with most offering the latest equipment. But bear in mind their stock will be mostly loaded in the direction of beginners and intermediates and you may be disappointed in some if you are desperate to try out the latest high-end models.

You'll be well advised not to leave getting your rental equipment until Sunday morning – when the shops will be crowded with beginners trying to get to grips with an alien sport. We like the Pic Negre (00 376 73 77 20) rental shop in Soldeu and boarders and freestylers swear by the Loaded shop, run by pro-boarder Tyler Chorlton and pro-skier Pete Kaplansky.

Non-ski activities

Using the spas, in Soldeu, at various hotels and the superb Caldea thermal spa (00 376 800 999) down in Andorra la Vella, is a popular activity. Tubing and tobogganing at Riba Escorxada has a following and in Canillo there is the Palau de Gel (00 376 800 840), including ice rink, pool and tennis. There's also dog sledding, snowmobiling and snow shoeing.

But it would be foolish to miss out on the shops in the capital – the principality takes its duty-free status seriously and there are big-time bargains to be had.

Childcare

Childcare is provided through the In Grau Roig, Pas de la Casa, Soldeu, El Tarter and Canillo, there are ski kindergartens where children from three to six can have ski lessons. Places can be limited and bookings for children should be made in advance via the Mickey Snowclub (00 376 80 10 60). Nursery prices (last year) are €115 for five consecutive full days, not including the cost of lunch.