In the village

Considering the village is small, there is a good variety of restaurants in and around Alpbach - with many of them based in the hotels, as is usual with Austrian villages. The Boglerhof (00 43 5336 5227) is a lovely place to eat, full of tradition and atmosphere - and with a fine wine cellar. The Alpbacherhof (00 43 5336 5237) also has a very mellow atmosphere.

The Post (00 43 5336 5203), Alphof (00 43 5336 5371) and Berghof are always popular, as is Messner's (00 43 5336 5171), which is good for coffee and cake in the afternoon and pizza and pasta in the evening. Flo's has become very popular and gained high praise, as has Gasthof Zirmalm - both big on Austrian specialities as well as a range of European dishes.

For fondues (if you must) choose Jakober (00 43 669 1536 6008) or Rossmoos (00 43 5336 5305), which also has some entertaining Tirolean evenings. Or try the kaiserschmarrn, an iconic dessert of chopped pancake and fruit compote, at the Zottahof (00 43 5336 5114).

At Inneralpbach, the Hotel Wiedersbergerhorn (00 43 5336 5612) has a lovely restaurant where we have always eaten well from an extensive menu of both Tirolean and international dishes.

Apres-ski is limited compared with other Tirolean resorts but still lively. This is Tirol after all, so Alpbach does have its moments, especially in the bars of the Jakober (where there's been an inn on the site since 1218) and the Post, which has live music.

Joe's Salett'l (00 43 699 1116 8992) next to the Poglbahn lift at Inneralpbach and the Umbrella Six bar nearby make good first stops as skiing ends. If your skiing ends at the Wiedersbergerhornbahn bottom station at Achenwirt, the Liftstuberl is the go-to apres-ski hut - it serves decent food too. The Zirmalm Restaurant in Inneralpbach offers a good choice of local dishes and has a cosy atmosphere with a open fire place.

Mountain restaurants

There are a number of mountain restaurants, the pick of them being the Böglalm (00 43 5336 5177) - we recommend the spit-roast chicken.
There are lovely views from the terrace of the Wurmhof (00 43 5336 5307), on the way down to Inneralpbach, and the Dauerstoa Alm (00 43 664 105 1929) is also worth a visit.

The tourist office website has a list of mountain huts too.